Automotive Forums. I started my car after being out with it twenty minutes earlier so the engine was a regular temperture. I was driving out of my driveway and the car started chugging and the RPM was bouncing up and down like the car was going to stall. The road was a bit bumpy from ice and snow. Once I stopped the car about 2 minutes later the engine chugged then resume normal idle. This happened again skiing I let the car warm up for a couple of minute the temperture was minus 6 degrees celsius outside not to cold and the car started doing its chugging thing only when I put the car in gear, it was fine to idle in park.
I am thinking the oxgen censor is loose and when I go over bumps it causes the car computer to go nuts. I had the oxygen censor replace a year and a half ago because of the RPM going up and down. Could it be anything else and what should I check? Thanks One issue is extended idle you use to have according your text: that has filled your combustion chambers with soot, and should be cleaned seafoam? Your car is a computerized moving sensor platform. Check those.
I live in similar luxury, have combed through a few problems which come via aging and documented them for you plus 'our club'. See my web page what to do I had a problem with my 2k maxima chugging and it turned out being at least one bad coil pack.
I tried disconnecting one coil pack at a time to see which one was the problem, but it was very intermittent so it was difficult to figure out which one s was to blame The fixed my chugging problem immediately. I changed the fuel filter, rotor, distributor cap and wires tonight Nissan parts. Lets see what happens.
I changed the plugs six months ago with Iridium NGK's so they are still good. Car runs really nice but I was trying not to break down and spend money on it since I am selling it or trading it in. Figures something like this would happen. Car is running much better, however it did lose power for 5 seconds on two occasions and then started running normally.
I guess the problem is still there but not as bad as what it was. Looks like it could be the coil or plugs. No, its not.Jim Lahey chugging liquor.
Coil is the last part in u car to break But u did not repair the grounding pin attachement to the distributor or did not make an add on ground wire as I suggested. If u cared to look the scope pics, u could see what it causes.
ECU does not get good square waveWhen i start my car which is a Mazda 1. It is a manual car, weather is good at the moment so its not cold in the mornings when i start the car. It is generally quite quiet and doesnt make much of a noise, its as if i've got kangaroo petrol in the car! I would check the spark plugs make sure they are clean as you may not be getting a good spark but as the engine speed picks up this becomes less noticeable.
Is is a standard or an automatic? Does it only happen when the car is cold, or does it happen all of the time? Are you flooring it, or are you applying a steady pressure to the gas pedal? You may need a tune up, first gear is when the car is working the hardest so it would make sense it runs worse when under a load.
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Update: It is a manual car, weather is good at the moment so its not cold in the mornings when i start the car. Answer Save.
Saint M.A properly tuned car should spring to life when the driver presses the accelerator, but some vehicles return only sluggish performance even with the gas pedal fully depressed.
Modern vehicles feature a complex set of systems for delivering fuel to the engine and evacuating exhaust gasses, and a failure of any component in these systems can lead to poor acceleration. Under acceleration, the vehicle introduces more fuel into the combustion chamber to increase combustion and boost power output. If something inhibits delivery of fuel to the combustion chamber, the vehicle may hesitate, sputter or simply fail to accelerate.
Under normal operation, the pump forces fuel from the gas tank, along the fuel rail and into the injectors; as the pump begins to fail, it loses its ability to effectively move fuel and results in decreased acceleration.
Like the fuel pump, a clogged fuel filter can inhibit the flow of gasoline and cause the vehicle to not accelerate. Over time, the fuel filter can accumulate a mass of impurities and become clogged enough to restrict the flow of fuel. As the flow becomes restricted, the vehicle experiences difficulty accelerating. Some vehicles have more than one fuel filter, and a clog in any of the filters can render similar effects.
Once the fuel passes through the fuel pump and filters, injectors move the fuel from the fuel lines into the combustion chamber. Because injectors must maintain very precise control of the amount of fuel introduced into the combustion chamber, they often feature very small passages through which the fuel must pass.
Over time, natural buildup and very small impurities in gasoline not removed by the fuel filters can clog holes in the injectors and impede the flow of fuel into the combustion chamber.
Automotive experts on 2 Car Pros recommend the occasional use of injector cleaning products available at local automotive parts stores to prevent buildup and restore fuel flow.
On many modern cars, according to the automotive website AA 1 Car, catalytic converters serve to filter pollutants from automotive exhaust gases. Though many causal factors in decreased acceleration occur between the fuel tank and the engine, a clogged catalytic converter can also rob a car of its acceleration.
Because the engine cannot efficiently evacuate exhaust through a clogged catalytic converter, a car with a bad converter will likely struggle to accelerate. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Fuel Injectors Once the fuel passes through the fuel pump and filters, injectors move the fuel from the fuel lines into the combustion chamber. Catalytic Converter On many modern cars, according to the automotive website AA 1 Car, catalytic converters serve to filter pollutants from automotive exhaust gases.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. Photo Credits car engine image by itsallgood from Fotolia.A chugging car often indicates problems with the drive train, but the cause of the chugging might be difficult to ascertain.
Most chugging is caused by one of three scenarios. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the fuel filter at 15, miles.
Failure to replace the filter can result in poor fuel flow from the gas tank to the engine; this might manifest as a chugging effect. If the engine runs smoother under higher throttle positioning, and chugs once you slow down, replace the fuel filter. The catalytic converter is a pollution control device in the exhaust that resembles the muffler. The catalytic converter often plugs when it fails, causing a chugging sensation.
The car is hard to start with a plugged catalytic converter. If the chugging does not improve with throttle response, the catalytic converter might be the culprit. The spark plugs and spark plug wires -- or coil-on-plug COP packs on newer vehicles, --provide the necessary spark to ignite the air fuel mixture in the engine's combustion chamber.
When the spark plug, plug wire or COP fails, the engine misfires and chugs. This issue is evident at idle, and does not improve at any throttle position. Allen Moore's career includes awards in poetry and creative fiction, published lyrics, fiction books and nonfiction articles as well as a master certification in automotive service from the Ford Motor Company.
Moore is a contributing writer for RF Written by: Allen Moore Written on: May 13, About the Author.I have a Mitsubishi Lancer Gli, I bought it about a year ago and have had this issue since the beginning but it has slowly gotten worse over time. I had my spark plugs replaced about 2 months ago and that seemed to settle the problem, but not fix it entirely, and within a few weeks it was back to being as bad as it was pre-spark plug replacement.
I also had my timing belts replaced not as an attempt to fix this issue, but it was due and if anything, that seemed to make it worse. Does anyone have any ideas? Is the check engine light on? What are the codes if it is? Any other dash lights glaring away?
How many miles on the engine? What transmission- auto or manual? You might want to have it tested. That could be it- I know that my car goes flat really quickly if I leave the lights on, I will have to test it with another battery and see if anything changes.
As already stated, the battery is most likely weak and may need to be replaced. Make sure the battery terminals are cleaned with a battery post cleaning brush.
The car is chugging
Dirty battery connections can cause a charging issue. Along with having the battery tested, you should also have a load test done on the charging system to make sure the charging system is in good shape. Thanks guys. Hey guys, lol coming onto a year later and my car is still having the same issue. I had fitted another old battery into my car and got little to no improvement, and about 4 months ago I caved and bought a new battery.
Still no change. Any ideas? It sounds like the engine is idling too slow, try cleaning the throttle body.My car has difficulty starting.
The first time I try to turn it up, it starts pretty quickly. But, during the day, the startup becomes difficult. If I go somewhere for a while and go back to my car and try to turn it on, it has troubles starting.
At very low RPMs, it can start with a lot of chugging. Occasionally, when it wouldn't turn on at all, I would give it gas and it would start revving up roughly as I turn the key, keeping my foot on the gas pedal. At that point, I cannot let go off the gas so as not to let it turn off completely.
I go to RPMs as high as for a few minutes. Then, the car would idle and can run normally. While this is happening, the gasoline can be smelt. Also, there is white residue from the exhaust. What do you think could be the problem? Is this serious? Thank you. If the engine is having trouble starting after it has ran for a while and you are getting the smell of fuel, then it may be a failing fuel injector or an issue with a bad sensor.
Most of the time this is caused by a bad crank position sensor. When this sensor stops reading, the engine will not start because the computer cannot see an engine RPM reading. I would start installing a scan tool to see if the crank sensor is reading and to see if the coolant temperature sensor is reading correctly. If not, then it needs to be replaced.
If it is fine then the fuel system needs to be checked for leakage. Q: Difficult startup, chugging and rough revving asked by Neil W.
Robert Tomashek Automotive Mechanic. Thank Robert. Was this answer helpful?May 23, Blog. If your car is jerking around when you accelerate this is a warning sign that there is a bigger problem with your car. The sooner you are able to diagnose the issue, the more you can minimize the damage to your car and lower the costs of the repair.
You should not ignore this problem, always bring your car into a certified mechanic before it gets worse. Spark plugs that are worn out will cause the engine to misfire. This means that your spark plugs are not igniting the fuel in each piston cylinder in a timely manner, causing your car to jerk around while accelerating.
If your spark plugs are worn out they should just be replaced, as they are generally an easy and inexpensive repair. When your fuel injectors get dirty the stream of fuel will not be continuous, causing misfires in your engine — and as a result your car to jerk as you accelerate. Your fuel injectors should be cleaned occasionally to avoid this problem, as well as more costly repairs down the line. You may experience jerking if your acceleration cable is worn out. This is a metal braided cable that serves as a link between the gas pedal and your engine throttle plate.
When you press the gas pedal the cable is pulled and this opens the throttle. Over time these cables weaken with age and can fail and break. When this cable becomes damaged it will take you longer to accelerate and cause your car to jerk. Car engines need air and fuel to work. Inside of your engine air mixes with fuel and is lit by the spark plugs to create an explosion that moves the pistons inside.
This cycle continues on and on, allowing your car to move. If there is a block in the lines that allow fuel or air into your engine then this cycle is interrupted and can cause your car to jerk as you try to accelerate. This can happen easily when you are parked outside in cold weather. The best way to prevent this is to park in a warm dry spot on cold and wet weather days. Your catalytic converter is responsible for regulating the emissions coming out of your car.
Sometimes the rich mixtures of air and fuel that flows through your catalytic converter can clog, which can result in a jerking or stuttering motion when you press the gas pedal. At AAMCO Colorado, we run a thorough Vehicle Courtesy Check to get at the root of the problem, make an accurate diagnosis, and confirm with you the work that needs to be done to fix it right and get you back on the road.
Keep an eye out for these common dashboard warning lights and understand what they could mean about your car. Regularly check your transmission fluid levels Make sure your cooling system is serviced Come to a complete stop before shifting gears from reverse to drive Change your transmission filter regularly Avoid using your